Review of Erato in Edwardsville
Editor | Aug 11, 2010 | Comments 0
by Jesse Gernigin
Technical precision is a dangerous knife with which to cut. On one hand a mastery of many techniques and the ability to apply them is often needed for success in one’s field. On the other hand you don’t want these skills to be apparent, or noticed. You must work hard to make it seem that you are not working hard.
It is an old adage, but a true one. I mention this at the start of my review because I want it noted that Johnathon Olson, Erato’s head chef, served me some of the most technically proficient food I have eaten. It sounds odd, almost like an insult, but it is not. I have had some of my best meals in Edwardsville at Erato.
Let’s just get this out of the way: I do not enjoy beef. There, I said it, don’t shoot (and please, dear reader, keep reading). To me beef has little flavor, is often over priced and almost to the dime is radically under prepared and over pushed. I ate beef twice at Erato, and I loved it. The first meal I had was a dry aged tenderloin tartare. It was served with a rim of darkened asparagus stalks cut to height and delicately placed about the meat. The meat itself was the way tartare is meant to be served, rich, concise and densely delicious. Oftentimes chefs intersperse things into tartare to alleviate the fact that they use lesser quality beef, Jonathan did not and the result was superb.
The extensive wine and beer collection at Erato in Edwardsville.
The second beef dish was served simply with green beans, potatoes, and cooked rare. I loved it. A tight, well rounded buttery sauce filled out the flavors between bites of meat and vegetable and the green bean’s crispness gave the dish a balanced texture. This alone is enough to warrant a good review in my opinion, but I will continue.
Alongside the beef plates I also had a wonderful bass dish that sat wonderfully in my mouth as it did on the plate. I also helped myself to a ravioli dish that was stuffed with short rib cooked tender enough to remain in form on the fork but flash flood your mouth with a wonderful balance of pasta, short rib, and sauce when bitten into.
The smaller plates rang true as well. You might find yourself tempted to make a meal out of them. My favorite amongst them was the oysters. They were served simply on a bed of salt and with little garnish to support them save Jonathon’s expert eye for quality oysters (and trust me those eyes saw the flavor there and brought it forth). There was also an excellent nettle and gnocchi plate where the nettle’s unique flavor was cleverly rounded out with the gnocchi’s smooth texture, rewarding your taste buds if eaten slowly.
The cheese selection is simple but well balanced and when ordered served simply with walnuts, honey and crustinis made at Edwardsville’s 222 Bakery.
The desserts were well done, whether it was an olive oil ice cream over rhubarb sauce matched with a semolina cookie or some hot doughnuts fresh from the kitchen (beignets perhaps, didn’t think to ask) with a sweet sauce for dipping.
Overall I highly and completely recomend Erato for a nice dinner for two, or if you just happen to want an amazing meal!
Check out Jesse’s earlier review of Erato’s bar. If you enjoyed this story, please use the FaceBook and Twitter buttons up top or down below to help spread the word!
Related posts:
Filed Under: Featured • Restaurants
